Porto, Portugal

Leaving Edinburgh was bittersweet. Not just because we loved it, but because we managed to catch some kind of nasty bug on our way out. Ever tried traveling while feeling like a human-sized puddle of misery? That was us leaving Edinburgh. 10/10 don’t recommend.

But when Porto is waiting on the other side, you power through with a cocktail of foreign meds (what we took is still a mystery, but it somewhat did the trick), and off we went. There was no way an a**hole cold was going to stop us from diving headfirst into Portugal.

Portugal has been on our bucket list forever. The more I researched, the more I fell in love with it, even before we touched down. Ancient history? Check. Beautiful language and kind people? Check. Stunning architecture, amazing food, and, oh yes, wine? Triple check.

This was going to be a trip to remember.

We had twelve days, which seems like a lot, but trust me—it’s not when you’re trying to see a slice of everything this country has to offer. We started in Porto, where we planned to explore by foot for a few days, hit the Douro Valley (because you have to), and then make our way south by car.

When we landed in Porto, it felt like stepping into a postcard. I mean, it seriously looked like a painting come to life: cobblestone streets, rolling hills dotted with colorful houses, winding alleys, and cafés on every corner oozing charm. It’s one of those cities where you can just feel the magic in the air. The smell of fresh pastéis de nata wafting around doesn’t hurt, either.

Pastéis de nata—we read all about these tiny little bites of heaven before we even arrived (thank you Girls Love Travel for all the personalized recommendations), and when we tasted them… what on earth! They have no business being so delicious. These flaky, buttery pastries are filled with creamy custard (it’s like a mini crème brûlée with pastry crust) baked to perfection, and topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon and powdered sugar. They’re basically Portugal’s gift to humanity and taste like a sweet, warm hug for your soul. Perfect with a cup of coffee, or let’s be honest, with anything. We loved these treats! The best (by far!) were at https://manteigaria.com/, and they have locations all over Portugal. Lucky us! With pastry shops on every corner we kept asking ourselves…how is everyone here so fit? Ahhhhh, it’s the damn stairs.

The Locals

The locals are AHHMAZING! So friendly, kind, and patient, especially as I tried to communicate in Portuguese. Now, I am used to communicating in (broken) Spanish or English while traveling, but Portuguese is a whole different beast. Armed with my trusty phrasebook and Google Translate, I gave it my best shot, and they genuinely appreciated it. I got plenty of smiles, even when I butchered the simplest phrases. English is widely spoken in many parts of Portugal, but it is always wise (and respectful) to learn at least the basics!

Porto is like a treasure chest of historical wonders, and the Ribeira district, where we stayed and highly recommend, is an actual UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walking around, you get this perfect mix of old-world charm, stunning cathedrals, street art, music, and of course, incredible food. Walking is the best way to experience the city—and trust me, we walked, and walked…and yup, walked. Everywhere. So much, in fact, that we convinced ourselves that we deserved gelato every night.

The Häagen-Dazs in Porto is NOT like the ones in the states. It’s actually creamy gelato and did you know that they offer Magic Shell topping? Yeah, you know the one, the chocolaty goodness that stars warm them turns into a hard chocolate shell on your gelato? I can’t even. I literally died and went to gelato heaven.

Exploring Porto

Livraria Lello, often called one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, is a must-see. It seriously looks like something plucked from a fairy tale, with its stained glass ceiling and intricate wooden staircase. Book lover or not, this place is magic. According to Livraria Lwello, J.K. Rowling found inspiration here. (Funny isn’t it? Everywhere we seem to travel claim that J.K. Rowling was inspired there ha. Edinburgh has also built massive business around it…but I see it here FOR SURE).

The line to get in was brutal, and and the sweaty tourists creating a fog of heat and stinkiness didn’t help, but the place itself is a masterpiece. We bought our nieces who are both avid readers, custom Livraria Lello copies of Dracula. Now, before you start judging us on why we would buy 11 year old girls copies of a horror novel, it just made so much sense. The book is incredible, yes, scary af, but it was written in the 1800’s and it’s old world vibe aligned with the feeling on the bookstore, and trust me, our nieces will love it. The custom copies can only be found there; no where else on earth will you find them. And plus…Vampires are cool as shit. (No Twilight Series here girls,… your Aunties are going for pure Gothic horror…you’re welcome.)

While trekking around the city we stopped at several historic sites:

Clérigos Tower, one of Porto’s most iconic landmarks. It’s 240 steps to the top, and let’s just say, we had our cardio for the day sorted. But it’s worth every single step for the panoramic view of the city. If you’re a sucker for breathtaking views like I am, this is a must. Honestly the climb up isn’t that bad, it’s always the climb down that destroys our knees, but you know what helps sore knees? Yup, you guessed it… gelato.

São Bento Railway Station. You might be thinking, “A train station? Really?” Yes, really. The interior is covered in over 20,000 traditional blue and white azulejo tiles, and they’re basically telling the story of Portugal’s history in one beautiful, artistic swoop.

Porto’s iconic azulejo tiles are a key part of Portugal’s cultural heritage. These stunning blue-and-white ceramic tiles, often found covering buildings, train stations (looking at you, São Bento!), and churches, tell intricate stories of the country’s history and everyday life. The word azulejo comes from the Arabic “al zellij,” meaning “polished stone,” and the tradition dates back to the 13th century. https://www.cerdeirahomeforcreativity.com/our-blog/2019/9/2/10-things-you-didnt-about-the-the-portuguese-azulejo-t

São Bento is like walking into a museum disguised as a train station. It was bustling with locals, musicians, tourists and there is an awesome Time Out Marketplace where you can delight your palate with local delicacies and unique dishes from all over the world.

One of the most iconic sites is the Dom Luís I Bridge. This double-decker beauty is an engineering marvel and gives you stunning views of the Douro River. Cross it by foot, car, or even metro, but make sure to cross it—it’s one of those “quintessential Porto” experiences. We walked across and explored the other side of the river! Tons of street vendors, wineries, and local artists. It was such a vibe!

Of course, no trip to Porto is complete without visiting the Port Wine Cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. We opted out of the wine tour, but explored the property and were in awe of the history.

We hit up gorgeous gardens, enchanting cathedrals, mind blowing viewpoints and so much more, but it was impossible to track all of the sites we saw. The city is literally a giant museum. Artifacts, art, history, stories abound.

We loved Porto. Simply fantastical. Off to the Douro Valley to taste some ports, tour a few vineyards, and explore the Douro valley by car, boat, and train.